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New 2016 XE S owner - but I need your help

15K views 48 replies 22 participants last post by  Hillmangt 
#1 ·
Hi guys,

Three weeks ago I bought red Jaguar XE S with 33 000km on the clock.
So far I like the car a lot, handling is great, acceleration is good and the exhaust really amuses me :D .

However, this is my first ever Jag, and in terms of servicing and engine knowledge, I am very very clueless.
I am trying to get some more information on the things that I should know about maintenance and be vigilant for any weak spots.

I have managed to find some of the km intervals - engine oil, filters and coolant - that is clear. How about spark plugs and ignition coils. Do I have to change those? Do you change diff oil?

Also, I have now noticed two issues: 1) The steering wheel has some squealing noises, especially if i adjust the steering wheel down. Very annoying. Any known issues and solutions?
2) And here I really dont know if I should be worried or not. My exhaust tips are very very black. And in one occassion I asked my brother to observe my exhaust when we accelerate hard. He was in his car and he told me that he has noticed little amount of black smoke coming out of the exhaust. Would that be normal or I have some ignition system problem, or perhaps bad fuel? Has anyone experienced this?

Other than that, the car runs perfect and I really enjoy it.

I also attach a pic of the baby. :)
View attachment 2706
 

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#28 ·
Just a thought, what grade of fuel are you running it on there? Some lower octane fuel may lead to knock, the engine will pull timing in the first instance, but may also richen the mixture to lower the charge temperature.
 
#29 ·
RoJo said:
DPF as in Diesel Particulate Filter when the car is an Xe S, which for the model year was only a 3.0 petrol.
Thank you, that was my point.
 
#31 ·
I have a XES 380 yes the exhaust tips are sooty even with shell v power however fuel economy is reasonable @37 mpg on a long motorway run at 70 mph If your car was over fueling it would throw an engine management code and show a yellow EML by this time the MPG would have dropped
 
#32 ·
Hi again,

So after changing all filters, oil , putting injector cleaner twice. Car is still smoking when driven hard. Diagnostics doesnt show any faults.

A friend of mine mentioned that spark plugs may need to be replaced on the 5th year. Other option is to take off the injectors and clean them.

I really dont know what to do as the car drives fine. I might as well do nothing and just accept that it will continue to smoke...
 
#33 ·
Spark plugs should be fine at 33,000Km. Is it hot where you are? High ambient temperatures may lead to the ECU putting in extra fuel to prevent detonation at full load. If you can get a cheap OBD reader and look at fuel trims, it should be similar on both banks. If one bank is massively cutting back on its short and long term trims, this would point to a potential fault. It is entirely possible that the slight haze under load is completely normal. Mine has never had super clean exhaust tips, but I did not expect it!
 
#34 ·
Hey guys,

Gonna use my old thread as I do not want to create a new one.

So far, the car has been fine. Ive driven it 10k km and had no issues whatsoever.

Did an oil change 7000km ago, oil level was at MAX level. Today, I decided to check it up and the level was somewhere at the middle. Would that be normal? To me sounds like it lost about 300-400 ml. I have had some pretty exciting journeys so yeah...

Just wanted to check with other 340hp owners to see hows their oil consumption.

Teodor
 
#35 ·
Hey mate,
I'd say that sounds normal. Bearing in mind I have the 380hp I've seen the same.
I had my service in last december at ~22,500miles, when I checked my oil approaching August it was also slightly above the middle ~26,600miles. So in 6,560km it went from max to somewhere in the middle also.
Got my garage to top it up for me and the amount was insigificant enough that they didn't charge me for it, can't remember how much was added however.
 
#36 ·
Mine has the 340hp engine and the oil was changed last November at 35,914 km. It hasn't been used much due to our restrictions here and the odometer is now on 44,300 km. The oil level is at around ⅞. A little used, but not enough to worry about topping up. It'll be back for another change in around 3 months anyway.
 
#37 ·
Hi again guys.
So apparently, the engine was still too hot when I measured it.
ive checked it 15 min. later that same night and the level went up to sligthly below the max level. So it has consumed about 100ml overall. Pretty good.

btw how is your transmission behaving, mine is a bit clunky in the low revs and very noticeable when switching from D to R?
 
#38 ·
No issues with the transmission. Changes are very smooth and nothing unusual when moving from Drive to Reverse.
 
#40 ·
That is in the 100000 mile area. This is one of those hidden service items that the dealer knows about. I remember some cocky cow at a dealers rabbiting through the service info and remember that it was over 100000 miles and with liquid gold, judging by the price. I think that it has to be done at a specific temperature also. This needs JLR equipment not available to the average home servicer.
 
#41 ·
Honestly 100k miles seems like quite a lot, taking into account that the car is meant to be puahed hard.
My old skoda with a dsg auto had scheduled intervals of 40k miles.

Is it a full drain or just oil change around this 100k miles interval? Any idea?
Bulgaria is quite cheap. I got an offer of about 400eur for the whole procedure, so I think I might go for it even now at around 35k miles.
 
#43 ·
Thanks for the price point share Dragos. I'm clocking 31,000 miles but think the 50,000 Diff change for AWD is smart when I get there.
 
#46 ·
Hi guys,

I am using my thread to ask a quick question:
It seems like my right rear tailight just died all of sudden. I suspect there are two bulbs in there, one for the static part and the other one for the trunk part. Question is, I did not get any error from the computer in the car, no fault or anything, I just spotted it walking away from the car. The brake and turn signal are working fine.

I tried finding the corresponding fuse in the Handbook, but I cant seem to find it.

Is this normal that I do not get any type of error? Could it be the bulbs or the fuse just died? Any suggestion and advice?

Thanks!
 
#49 ·
Computer doesn’t register rear brake light failure. Not sure about taillights which I believe are LED. I stand to be corrected on the latter. It is strange that both sections have failed as they are separate and have their own wiring and I would think their is a fuse somewhere.
 
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